The summit of Blood Mountain 

The Blood Mountain Shelter

The rock slabs on the north side of Blood Mountain 

Mountain Crossings

Those who decided they would go no further left their mark.

The fourth day on the trail held more unique experiences. Today I was hiking from Lance Creek over Blood Mountain to Neel Gap. It was a short day but Blood Mountain was the longest and highest climb I have faced on the trail. Neel Gap offered a good reward because there was a hostel there as well as an outfitter that sold pizzas. It started out as a gorgeous cold day. Anytime I was on a ridge or the west side of a mountain the continuous arctic breeze made it almost impossible to stop for any amount of time because you’d freeze. The climb up Blood Mountain was steep and difficult but because I knew it was coming it didn’t seem so bad. I just kept my head down and kept climbing. The trail seemed to go on forever. Around every turn there was more mountain. I’d look up and see sky all around and think I was almost there but nope, here’s more mountain. Finally I saw the big stone shelter that sits almost at the summit and I knew I made it. I took a short break, signed the shelter log, got a snack, and got the heck out of there before I froze. The wind was relentless. Apparently very few people ever stay at the shelter this time of year because it is so exposed.  

I’m glad I got to climb up the south side of Blood Mountain because the north side was unlike anything I had hiked on the trail thus far. The upper portion was mostly large rock slabs. Further down the trail turned into a sadistic jumble of boulders though which the trail snaked. Parts of it looked as if the trail makers wandered out there with a bucket of white paint and just randomly splattered it all over the place. I heard later from a few hikers that they navigated this section at night. I’m really not sure if I could have done that without breaking my neck.

With Blood Mountain behind me I walked into Neel Gap for a much needed rest. The guidebooks say about 25% of the hikers who start the trail hang up their books and call it quits here. The tree out front of Mountain Crossings outfitters is decorated with these discarded relics. I walked into the store and got a room at the hostel. It was going to be a crowded night because the weather was going to get wicked cold that night. I found a bunk then took the most delightful hot shower, my first since starting the trail. I put on some clean clothes, walked back up to the store, and attacked a pizza. It may have just been a simple frozen pizza but to me it was a feast and I took down the whole thing. I then grabbed a few sodas and did a little shopping. I had to resupply some items in my pack. I also made the most important purchase of my hiking career. I had started the trail hiking in tights. I thought this would be a good defense against the dreaded chafing. It worked well enough for the first couple of days. The the tights stretched out. I spent most of the climb up Blood Mountain constantly rearranging the damn things to try and find a comfortable position. In my shopping I came across a hiking kilt made by Mountain Hardware. This purchase combined with a tube of body glide has become an epiphany. No matter the temperature the kilt has been comfortable to hike in. It’s got two large pockets so it’s already infinitely more utilitarian than the tights.

The night spent at the hostel was warm and comfortable.